I changed them 700 kms ago, so they should be clean and maybe make the mixture a little leaner through the airscrew. Also now I’m certain that the fuel level indeed is high enough to pour into these side holes as the needle jet was soaking wet to the top when I took it out, aside from the fact that it runs pretty well with the holes closed. Shop thousands of Yamaha PW80 Parts at guaranteed lowest prices. Makes perfect sense. I removed and disassembled the carbs completely and cleaned them. Or if I’m rolling down the road and I pull the clutch in then let it back out and ease on the throttle. They are usually stamped on the bottom. Rodbolt, you will have to excuse me but the mechanics in my area would not make a scab off your ass, Copyright © 2000 - 2021, Outdoor Network LLC. 2) looking at this link (CARBURATOR PARTS OEM KAWASAKI ZRX1200R), https://www.kawasakioriginalparts.com/road-bikes.html?blockref=99912-1179.C-12&machineid=660&year=2005&model=ZR1200-A5H&country=XX. The hesitation, is it a bog (lean) or rich (sputter)? Yes i did do a pressure test and all was good after that one little hiccup. I’ve got mods and the carb was professionally jetted. If I’m not satisfied with the result then I’ll recheck the whole config (needle pos., mainjet size..) this weekend and order a K&N airfilter and replace the stock one. The bike has aftermarket air pods and Vance and Hines exhaust. Have you adjusted the fuel screw after removing the spark arrestor? If they dip below idle, lean the mix. What could be the issue? Hi Matthew, I’ve watch your videos in the past and they have help out a lot! What is a WOT plug chop? If it requires less thatn 1/4 turn, it may be too rich. Something else is going on. Michael. Still can’t get it to idle more than 45 sec. Is there a way to measure them so I know from which size to go down? The bike had not been ridden much the last few years and I expected to have to disassemble and clean the carbs. I am in Devon, UK and there is a lack of yamaha carb experts here! I know jet kits in some cases drill the CV slide and replace spring so they lift easier giving the engine more fuel/air. But its only got 13000 miles on it so it should be able to run and ride smooth i would think. Both of these should not have any cracks otherwise it will introduce air leaks (vacuum leaks). Maybe the stumble you are trying to solve is the transition between pilot circuit and throttle valve. Get the bike HOT and tune the fuel screws for highest idle. Sometimes this is considered normal with a race engine and open pipe. It runs much better now, but still won’t die with the screw fully screwed in. So I tried to adjust and I find to reach the smoothest and highest idle I am like 4+ turns out. -intermittent backfire during heavy deceleration? Question: by everything I have read on your site and others the “rule of thumb” so to speak is 2-3 turns out for the pilot needle is optimum. Already synced them up good and all the other usual non carburetor items have been checked. Replaced powerhead with full reconditioned unit and reused my existing carbs. If this is your first visit, be sure to That was probably due to all the fuel flooding the cylinders. You probably had a stuck float. Let’s start with the pilot jet. Let me know what happens when you get the tps working properly. Main: 132.5. Sounds like you are VERY close if not there. Hi, For example, with throttle blades closed, one passage will be on engine side, while the other on airbox side. Could that be the cause of everything i have been experiancing? AM I wrong?? Is the stall from a bog? I was always under the assumption that carbs our of sync would lack throttle response and I always though it was very responsive. Do you plan on running the air box lid? I took it home, pulled all four plugs out and was shocked to see the plugs were dark! Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I would really appreciate your feedback and recommendations. original tube spark arrestor swapped with free flow Spark arrestor If not what air filters and exhaust? I have a temp gun and all header pipes read in the same spot closest the the head in the 300-500 range so I know they aren’t foul’d completely just I’m sure very black from a few years of extremely rich mixture. needle in until the rpms drop 50 rpms then turn it out 3/4 turn and that is the final setting. if i turn out more 2,5 the engine start stumble and turn in all the screw, the engine dies. I should also add that with the mixture at 4 turns out when I take it for a test ride the lower rpm and smaller throttle openings are smooth and extremely responsive (more then it ever has) but since the sync the mid has been kinda lack luster. and fuel screw 2.75 out. It wants more fuel. It’s increased to 9,2-9,3 liter/100 km (30 mpg) from the normal 5-6 liter/100 km (50 mpg). Pro50parts Australia | Yamaha PW50 PW80 TTR50 Aftermarket Parts OEM Parts| Honda Monkey Z50A Z50J Z50R Monkey Bike Gorilla Dax CT110 Aftermarket Parts OEM Parts | Australian owned | Fast Shipping | Call us today for more information It has a very high idle. Another thing could be the fuel level in the carburetor bowl. Keep it up:-) Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Did you hold all jets up to a light source to see if you can see through them? So not a tech question, but is that a Yamaha XS series bike in the video? Don’t those normally coincide to an extent? I have to disagree with at least part of the above.. 225TLRS: I had been trying to adjust the air adj screws and was advised to set and forget trying to dial them in. Thanks, Dunc. It almost seems like a misfire in a car. check out the. My next jump will be 128. its strange. Engine ran fine until cracked block etc etc. Spray carb clean everywhere from cylinder head to airbox! It has an ignition advancer +2 and k&n filter. I tryed to start it the next day and was experimenting with a no choke start and it turned over 3 maybe 4 times and then hydro locked or atleast so it seemed. Well that did not go as smoothly as planned. If not, you have to take care of them. I like to spray a bit of water on each header pipe to see if the cylinder is firing. Please Email me if you can set to specs. Warmer days and colder nights affects air pressure in the empty space above fuel in tank which expands and contracts drawing in cooler moister air in the evening and overnight through overflow/breather = rust. They can give owners so many headaches with high float levels or flooding that you are experiencing. Get that sorted out and move on to the needle and main. Problem is, I don´t know if the pilot jets in the carb are stock (manual says 17.5) or smaller/larger. Which was 2 1/2 turns out on the mixture screws it idles terrible. I have not replaced the Air Cutoff Valve (ACV) yet. It starts and runs fine starting cold with no choke. I can cruise in 6th and go wide open and she gets right up and goes. Next time you have them apart it would be best to bump pilot jets up one size. It was probably 75% gas. Check for vacuum leaks. I will update again when i get the new one on and test ride it. Your help, opinions and views are greatly appreciated,, I would love to solve this issue. Don’t use any downward pressure since the screw may plunge down and the tip will break in body. Found this place, the screw was cheaper, and the shipping was fast & free. The 77′ XS750 actually has an 850 motor in it that was punched out to 885 or 888. There’s no motorcycle repair around my area. Thanks before. Runs great at higher rpms. okay, will check again the fuel screw and buy an original mikuni pilot jet 17.5 and will give you a feedback later. (For the 100hp model – 128 main and 42 pilot) This means that carb 4 is correctly jetted but not working. It’s impossible to adjust stocker. If you are not achieving both of these, something is wrong. Do you always run VP110? In this article we will give our review for the Yamaha PW80 The PW80 is a great starter bike for a kid that’s just getting into riding, maybe around the age of 7 to 11 years old. To verify, remove the screw and it it has a blunt tip then it meters air. Temp is 70 degrees here and the temp at 60 down the highway was about 170-180s and in town it would creep up to 200+ one thing I did notice is that I was able to slowly ease off the throttle without it bucking and kicking and it was much smoother at cruising speed in 6th gear at 60 giving like a 1/16th throttle. You can somewhat remedy this by continuing to richen pilot jets, however will consume more fuel at cruise. How exactly does the pilot size not get metered at 1/8th throttle? Get a hold of a service manual and note stock jetting. OK, let’s talk about this stumble. There will also be an idle screw. Its just tuning it in and i should be good to go. Any recommendations? But I have a carb problem that no one cause solve!I have a 1985 CB700SC with low miles. I replaced everything on the carbs including rebuilding the choke plunger pads. Maybe the color will indicate what is going on. Always at around a 1/4 throttle or less. As a first step I’ll unscrew all 4 spark plugs and check the conditions. I reset mixture screws after the change it smoothest idle was atleast obtained. I’ve tried every setting I can try with the mixtures besides going way in like between 1-3 because of what my manual says they should be at stock. from the 1.5 turns out, slowly start turning the screw in 1/2 turns at a time, allowing 15-20 seconds between turns for the engine to "catch up" to each new fuel/air setting. I bought the jets from Dennis Kirk. Thanks. I’m gonna try 1 1/4 and see if its any better or worse. I have been watching oil level like a hawk to make sure it hasnt changed. Revving the engine in neutral will result in RPM dip below idle RPM, RPM’s will drop quickly. Could to much fuel have fouled them or be throwing off all my work if I do try to set the mixture? And my pilot jets are all 2 steps up from factory which is 12.5 so they are all 14.5s and my mixture screws are all messed up. High float levels could cause headaches. Could you perhaps elaborate on the difference between a lean hesitation/bog/stumble off-idle as opposed to a rich stutter? Update: Yesterday I tried again. Was this information helpful? (How many turns from closed) The bike have very slight jerking between 2500rpm and 3000rpm if I drive it. Soak it with penetrating oil and walk away for a few days. Stuart, did you try to adjust the pilot air screw first? Is this a stock bike? If the screw is turned in, it reduces the amount of air and richens the mixture. So the stumble was probably a sputter, not hesitation? I usually never change float height to mask a jetting issue. With a fuel capacity of 1.3 gallons, you’ll get plenty of fuel to keep a younger rider going and it’s not going to be overly aggressive The bike has an annoying problem. Hopefully it will work for you. I have cleaned carbs etc and have a good idle at 1200 rpm and screw 2 1/2 turns out.a blip on throttle has a good return to 1200 (about 2sec or less) so all good there.However just above idle say 1600 the engine staggers then more throttle and is ok .I tried none shim under the needle but not much difference. Check the play of the throttle cable (A) by pulling the outer part of the cable. It sat for a few years.
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